How To Make A Sari Blouse

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The sari-blouse:

I always think of sewing educator Gale Grigg Hazen when sewing something so fitted that my dart manipulation & dart sewing skills are tested. Dart manipulation is like "fitting a beach ball" – these words were first heard when Gale uttered them in her sewing classes. Her sense of humor and delivery of hilarious dialogue sent home the point; and the beach ball reference stayed with me all these years. Where's Gale now? I'd love to know.

This is the blouse one wears with a traditional sari worn by women of South Asia (Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, SriLanka). Its akin to a very close fitting crop top which recently had its own fashion moment.

The only way a flat piece of material will fit a curvy shape is by using darts. The sari-blouse is so close fitting that you can easily identify it as a "moulage" of sorts. The moulage reference will make sense to those who have taken a Craftsy class by Suzy Furrer. A moulage is closer fitting than a regular bodice sloper and has minimum ease. The sari-blouse usually has a front opening, with hook and eye closures. One would think that using stretchy fabric will absolve one from the addition of darts and closures. Maybe. I haven't worn or even made a pull on jersey sari-blouse – yet.

So the story of my blue blouse goes thus: instead of taking the trouble to create my own pattern, I took apart a blouse that I hadn't worn in years, pressed the pieces and traced the outline and details on to tracing paper. Because I had to make some adjustments – as in, you know, making it larger. (Embarrassed laugh). The blue blouse was the result. By the way, I never wore this, since my grandmother's sari (which was to be partnered with this blue blouse) had "vintage" stains on it. Oh, well. Besides, the waist dart is not quite right.

Now, I'm sewing up another sari-blouse and sharing the process with you. Here's where I trace the formerly-traced pattern so I can make more adjustments in size and design. You'll note that the front piece ends just below the waist dart, and a midriff piece is added below it (it doesn't go around to the back). The back piece is like a usual back with waist darts, and is cut on the fold at center back. I'll cut two pieces each of the front and midriff patterns. Note the shape of the sleeve, which is very tight fitting.

Adjusted — Red dotted lines are the NEW cutting lines. Note the lowered midriff-yoke seam.

The adjustments are traced in red marker in the photos. I lowered the front yoke seam and added 1/4″ to the side seams and sleeve seams. That should give me some more room for my now larger frame and gravity-affected bustline.

What else? I think I'll make some design changes to the front and back neckline. Maybe like this one from the Pinterest page of a RTW boutique.

From Pinterest — Inspiration picture. It is comparatively sedate.

Go to my Pinterest page and check out the board I've named "Sari Blouse" for some wow blouses. While you're there, do follow me 🙂 .

sari and blouse fabric — Left: sari with it's orange/silver border. Top right: brocade blouse fabric

By now, you deserve to know what fabric I'm using for the next blouse, and my old sari I'll wear it with. The blouse fabric is a silk brocade and I'll underline it with Bemberg rayon.

The sari is my own, but it is o-o-ld. My grandmother bought it for me back in the 1970s. At that time, it was a little hard for me to handle saris and this one was worn once and put away for 40 plus years. Everything has it's time in the sun.

Next step: cutting fabric and underlining.

Next, next step: sewing it up.

So, this is where I'm at in this sari-blouse making task. I'll share further information and thoughts about it as I go along. Also, the outfit will be worn to a wedding on April 1. No pressure……

Feel free to ask any questions or express your thoughts.

Samina